There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on
the market, and even this particular company makes so many different
models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you
need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like
the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the
bottom of this review.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- These are essentially the same, but the Shur Grip's are sized for passenger cars and the Super Z LT's are sized for light trucks. Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- These are essentially the same, but the Shur Grip's are sized for passenger cars and the Super Z LT's are sized for light trucks. Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
The instructions are clear enough, although they should have made it extra clear 1. by giving hints on the picture as to which side of the tire is on which direction relative to you and 2. by providing extra pictures of some keywords they use - bushing, C hook etc. Not that these are hard to figure out but every bit helps when you are out there in cold, snow, sleet etc.
Handling the chains and putting them on the tire and using the rubber tightener were simple and easy. For the first time it took me ridiculously short time - less than 10 minutes for both chains together. Taking them apart was simple and took perhaps not even 1 minute each tire.
These chains came in a box rather than a bag. A bag would have been more flexible. Putting them back in the box was slightly challenging and perhaps the hardest part of the whole exercise!!
I'd recommend taping the instructions sheet on the inside of the box so it doesn't fly away while you are installing the chains.
I also commend SecureChain company for having video on their web-site.
I am yet to try the chains in a really icy, tricky situation but I feel very confident they will work very well.I have used them once so far. Quality is good and they do work well, but it's a pretty rough ride on cleared roads. They are a pain to put on and not quite so bad to take off, but plan on getting full of snow as you put them on or take them off. Put a set in your trunk along with a good pair of gloves and avoid using them if at all possible. But if you get caught away from home and really need to get back after a snow storm, they are wonderful. Also, if you use them in salt conditions, be sure to rinse them off and hang them up to dry before putting them away or they will rust. Doubt if it hurts anything, but the rust stains look bad. I would also recommend putting them on sometime before you need to so that you get a feel for what all is involved. Much of my frustration could have been avoided if I had tried them on in better weather before I actually needed them. I haven't tried these chains yet... purchased as precaution for future ski trips into the mountains, but these chains WILL NEVER fit back into the product packaging in which they were shipped! Especially after they have been used, removed from the tires and in the freezing cold at the side of the highway the compactness of the original packaging WILL NEVER be accomplished. I purchased a 19" plastic tool chest, threw away the tray and fitted the chains into that container quite nicely. Also, the extra rubber bands in the 'purchased with' section below the chains on the product page ARE NOT FOR THESE CHAINS>... do not order them! (Stock # QG20070) I used my SZ331 chains for the first time during a recent weekend at a ski area. They were fairly easy to install and worked fine on the road up. (The road was plowed and sanded so it really wasn't much of a test.) Upon leaving the area it was snowing heavily and there were a lot of unplowed areas of deep snow in the parking lots and roadways. I got stuck numerous times even with these chains on. More importantly, the passenger's side chain came off twice in the deep snow and when I finally got going down the mountain it came off again. It now lies somewhere on that mountain road.
I believe I installed the chain correctly and I confirmed that I bought the correct SCC chain for my tire size. I called the Security Chain Company (SCC) to see if I could get a single replacement chain. They said losing a chain wasn't covered in the warranty and they don't sell "half" sets. Asking why the one chain kept coming off in the deep snow, the rep said that the only way they come off is "if you spin the tires." Really? You're kidding? I've driven with chains in the mountains for years and I've spun tires with chains on (not excessively of course, I know not to do that) but some spinning of tires is bound happen in snow, duh! Went on a winter road trip a few weeks back and the forecast called for a ton of snow and ice. Well, good thing the weather man messed up because we didn't encounter any snow or ice. So, having said that i cannot write a review based on performance of the SCC Shur Grip traction chains.
So, I shall base my review based on how easy the Shur Grips were to install. Before taking off on my epic roadtrip I heeded sound advice and did a test fit of the chains and learned how to mount them. I have NEVER used snow chains before. These were a piece of cake to install! It took me less than 5 minutes. It didn't seem possible but they really are that easy to put on. The SCC Shur Grip company website offers some instructional videos on how to use the chains.
The chains came with tensioners included. Which is good because I wouldn't have known that I needed them until it's too late. The whole setup fits snugly in its included hard sided storage case.
My only question is why are they called chains? they are really just cables with hundreds of washer looking things. They are not made of the inter connected links normal people think of when using the word "chain."I purchased these for my Chevy Uplander. The first thing I did was jack up the front end and install these to test for fit. They seem to fit well and not interfere with any equipment so I drove to the end of the street and back. All in all, it is a good product. Still need to get out on snow however.
My biggest challenge came when putting them back in the box. After talking to SCC, I recommend the following:
(1) Lay the first chain out flat
(2) Fold in half bringing one end of the chain over to the other end.
(3) Repeat (1) & (2) with the second chain on top of the first.
(4) At this point it should appear to be four half-lengths of z-chain stacked nicely.
(5) Make sure the case is open and empty.
(6) Being careful not to pinch fingers, bunch the cross cables together, lift, and place in the box with the middle of the cross cables lined up with the middle of the box. The ends WILL overhang.
(7) Starting on one side of the box, fold the radial cables into the box.
(8) Repeat with the other side.
(9) Twist and fold the tension bands, collect the gloves, and place them in the middle void left between the radial cables .. on top of the cross cables.
(10) Fold the box close; force the radial cables into the box starting on one side and finishing with the other.
(11) Make sure the box is closed with the lip of the bottom half resting inside the upper half.
(12) Make sure the latches are secured.
Practice! Practice! Practice!
There will be nothing like standing on the side of a road on a dark cold snowy night trying to figure out how to install and remove the chains for the first time. And watch the videos. They make it look as easy as it is. Easy to install and work great. If a person needs to use chains they shouldn't be driving fast, so I don't get why goof balls complain about them coming off at high speeds. If the written installation instructions have you confused, just visit the company's website to view a video (it's easier). Most of the time my 4 wheel drive is enough but when it isn't , these have always got me out of those tuff spots, like the snow storm I drove into out in the midwest. I'd suggest practice putting them on before you really need them.
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