Typical questions asked about products:
- Is the item durable?
- Is this item easy to use?
- What are the dimensions of this item?
Jumat, 21 Desember 2012
Goodyear Integrity Radial Tire - 215/70R15 98S
Kamis, 20 Desember 2012
Security Chain Company SZ343 Shur Grip Z Passenger Car Tire Traction Chain - Set of 2
here are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on the market, and even this particular company makes so many different models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the bottom of this review.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Sabtu, 25 Agustus 2012
best buy Kumho Ecsta reviews
The Ecsta AST combines exotic appearance, modern tread design and
technology in one low-profile package, while delivering all-season, high
performance grip and handling to the entry-level tuner enthusiast. An
advanced belt package design is constructed using high-tensile steel
belt and jointless nylon cap ply to reinforce the tread area, assuring
high speed stability, while an ultra-hard bead filler maximizes lateral
grip and high speed durability. The AST’s shoulder blocks feature a
sharp leading edge and a rounded trailing edge to prevent heel and toe
wear. The leading edge increases wet and snow traction by cutting
through ice and water film. A rim protector in the lower sidewall
safeguards wheel against scratches and abrasions.Great tires for dry pavement driving. A little slippery on wet roads.
Well, maybe the BMW Sportster has something to do with the slipping. :-)
Got 70,000 miles out of them. Bought a new set from Amazon. Good tires,
excellent price. Recommend themPurchased this set of tires to replace Bridgestone tires that are no
longer manufactured. I am very pleased with the Kumho product ... they
provide a very smooth and quiet ride. I would recommend these tires and
the Amazon seller to anyone considering purchasing new tires.
Tires are great and very smooth ride...my honda now handles like a real car now...i will look for ties in the future to purchase
Purchased this set of tires to replace Bridgestone tires that are no
longer manufactured. I am very pleased with the Kumho product ... they
provide a very smooth and quiet ride. I would recommend these tires and
the Amazon seller to anyone considering purchasing new tires.
Great tires for dry pavement driving. A little slippery on wet roads.
Well, maybe the BMW Sportster has something to do with the slipping. :-)
Got 70,000 miles out of them. Bought a new set from Amazon. Good tires,
excellent price. Recommend them.
Senin, 20 Agustus 2012
best buy Security Chain Company reviews
I do want to make a suggestion though. Put them on at home. Figure out how many links it takes to secure the inner part of the chains to have it seat properly. Once you know this, when you install them in the snow, just hook up the inner side of the chains the same amount of links. Drive forward a little and link the outside. If you've done it properly, your chains should be tight enough without having to constantly check if they need to be tightened. So I got some of these from the local Napa, They were great. Paid 2x what Amazon charges. They are amazing in snow. I drive a low provile BMW 3 series. It cannot handle 3 inches of snow on my street tires. With these chains I was pushing thru ice and 8 inches of snow like it was the race track. Only problem I had with them is even stay under 30mph on bare road, they wore out rather quickly. I need these to get in and out of the side streets I live on, but the main roads are generally clear. They did last about 5 weeks of daily use, then they pretty much fell apart. After you lose 1 link, you might as well junk em, as the rest will go rather shortly. I'm buying my second set now. At this price I'll buy em every 5 weeks if I have to. (BTW i'm a Cali boy, and i got moved to Eire, PA so you can an idea of my problem)
Update Jan 2012:
As I mentioned before, at this low cost, the chains were a pretty good option. At 5 weeks they took on about 500 miles or so before wearing out. Because of the low ride height and upgraded 17" rims, snow tires are way more expensive than what I could afford. This year I did end up getting real snow tires thru the military exchange on credit, but i paid $800 plus $80 to have them installed. While the snow tires handle great, the chains are an amazing option for anyone on a tight budget. I also found that if you make sure to tighten the chains very tight, they don't wear out as fast.
I used these tire chains just once to get up a paved, hilly road with a
sheet of ice on it. I was driving about 5-10 MPH and made it up the
hill just fine. However, I was pretty surprised to see that one of the
cross cables had snapped with just this one incredibly brief use. The
broken chain is now useless. (I had to park at the bottom of the hill
and walk up for the next few days until the ice melted). I would not
trust these tire chains and would strongly discourage anyone from buying
them. The tire chains do come with a one year warranty, but I bought
them years ago and only needed them this one time. For an item such as
tire chains, a one year warranty doesn't seem to make much sense. I
wish that I could have rated these tire chains with zero stars.
As a woman who doesn't normally put cables on her tires, I practiced
putting on these Radial traction cables on my Honda Odyssey's tires and
they weren't too difficult to install. When the time came to actually
use them, I had someone else place them on.
They were easy to drive on. I only drove 25 mph down the snowy mountain. The road was plowed and salted. I pulled to a turnoff (it was plowed and clean) to let some cars pass me. Even at such a slow speed, I hit ice and the car lost traction. I could feel the anti-lock brakes kick in as I started sliding. Fortunately, my slow speed, the anti-lock brakes, and the traction cables all worked together to keep me from sliding off the mountain. I've never driven in snow and ice, so I don't know how the cables should have performed on ice. All I know is that is how they actually did perform.
Taking them off wasn't difficult. I just unhooked them and drove over them. They aren't heavy, but cramming them back in the box is a problem. I solved that by using Velcro ties to hold it closed. These chains are for those rare occasions when the police require everyone on the road to have chains. They are not for regular use but if they get you home just once they're worth the price. I recommend also buying the rubber chain tighteners QG20070. The tighteners will take up any slack to help to prevent the chains from hitting the wheel wells and falling off. Needed to readjust them after moving some. Drove these in Lincoln Nebraska which doesn't get a lot of snow though about a foot I carved through without a problem. Became a bit of a snow plow indenting both left and right side of my front bumper pushing snow out of the way.
For the price I really like them. Drove about 30 miles with them always under 40mph and didn't notice any breakage as others noted. Keep in mind their aren't many hills around. Also I like they are light so not a big deal to move around in my trunk. The coils are much smaller than on the SCC Super Z6, but I had to replace that, because that made contact with the suspension. I'm a bit afraid how much it will withstand, but at least I have something that fits my 2010 Mazda6 with 205/65R16 tires.
You should not use rubber tightener for this one, the manual specifically warns for this fact. Prepare to get a pair of work gloves, it can be really painful to tighten with bare handsGood, but only for one season. I used this on a RWD Ranger, and due to the RWD and weight of the vehicle, my traction situation did not improve, even with the chains (had slick tires). These did help me get out of mud once, but were damaged afterwards. Great for dire emergencies when a vehicle is stuck. But when in doubt, just don't drive in bad weather if you don't have to.
They were easy to drive on. I only drove 25 mph down the snowy mountain. The road was plowed and salted. I pulled to a turnoff (it was plowed and clean) to let some cars pass me. Even at such a slow speed, I hit ice and the car lost traction. I could feel the anti-lock brakes kick in as I started sliding. Fortunately, my slow speed, the anti-lock brakes, and the traction cables all worked together to keep me from sliding off the mountain. I've never driven in snow and ice, so I don't know how the cables should have performed on ice. All I know is that is how they actually did perform.
Taking them off wasn't difficult. I just unhooked them and drove over them. They aren't heavy, but cramming them back in the box is a problem. I solved that by using Velcro ties to hold it closed. These chains are for those rare occasions when the police require everyone on the road to have chains. They are not for regular use but if they get you home just once they're worth the price. I recommend also buying the rubber chain tighteners QG20070. The tighteners will take up any slack to help to prevent the chains from hitting the wheel wells and falling off. Needed to readjust them after moving some. Drove these in Lincoln Nebraska which doesn't get a lot of snow though about a foot I carved through without a problem. Became a bit of a snow plow indenting both left and right side of my front bumper pushing snow out of the way.
For the price I really like them. Drove about 30 miles with them always under 40mph and didn't notice any breakage as others noted. Keep in mind their aren't many hills around. Also I like they are light so not a big deal to move around in my trunk. The coils are much smaller than on the SCC Super Z6, but I had to replace that, because that made contact with the suspension. I'm a bit afraid how much it will withstand, but at least I have something that fits my 2010 Mazda6 with 205/65R16 tires.
You should not use rubber tightener for this one, the manual specifically warns for this fact. Prepare to get a pair of work gloves, it can be really painful to tighten with bare handsGood, but only for one season. I used this on a RWD Ranger, and due to the RWD and weight of the vehicle, my traction situation did not improve, even with the chains (had slick tires). These did help me get out of mud once, but were damaged afterwards. Great for dire emergencies when a vehicle is stuck. But when in doubt, just don't drive in bad weather if you don't have to.
Rabu, 15 Agustus 2012
best buy Security Chain Company Super reviews
There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on
the market, and even this particular company makes so many different
models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you
need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like
the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the
bottom of this review.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
The Z6 and Z8 models are SCC's latest models. They are designed to handle smaller clearances between the side of the tire and the car than their older models. As a result of that design, they are hand crimped during the manufacturing process (instead of machine crimped), and that results in a slightly higher MSRP. SCC's representative tells me that the cable size and metal springs are the same size as their other cable-based products, and so the only reason to not to get the Z6's over the older models (Super Z's) is that the Z6's are slightly more expensive (usually only a few dollars). I've noticed that the Z6 connectors are a little harder to work with than the Shur Grip/Super Z LT model.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
9. On these particular cables, the upper front connector is BLACK and the bottom front connector is SILVER. When you're ready to take the cables off, if you get the wheel lined up so that the BLACK connector is on the top, it will be much easier to find and remove the rear connector (which will be opposite the black connector).
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
The Z6 and Z8 models are SCC's latest models. They are designed to handle smaller clearances between the side of the tire and the car than their older models. As a result of that design, they are hand crimped during the manufacturing process (instead of machine crimped), and that results in a slightly higher MSRP. SCC's representative tells me that the cable size and metal springs are the same size as their other cable-based products, and so the only reason to not to get the Z6's over the older models (Super Z's) is that the Z6's are slightly more expensive (usually only a few dollars). I've noticed that the Z6 connectors are a little harder to work with than the Shur Grip/Super Z LT model.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
9. On these particular cables, the upper front connector is BLACK and the bottom front connector is SILVER. When you're ready to take the cables off, if you get the wheel lined up so that the BLACK connector is on the top, it will be much easier to find and remove the rear connector (which will be opposite the black connector).
I practiced the installation in my garage before leaving on the trip and it was great to get comfortable with putting them on and removing them when there was no pressure. In the snow, it was only a five minute install per tire and I was scaling the mountain in no time. Well worth the $70 or so I paid on Amazon. We had friends that paid over $200 for lower quality chains when they were in NC. I never broke about 30 mph, so for the occasional foray into the powder, this was money well spent. A great product from SCC! Was skeptical at first. Read some reviews that documented bad experiences. My experience was nothing but good! I bought the cable chains as a "plan B" but I never thought I would need them and have "zero" experience with them. The day we reached Ruidoso, NM, it snowed 10" in about 12 hours (unbelievable). Road conditions changed from great to horrible in a matter of minutes. Chains worked great!. Note: I would recommend practicing installation ahead of time as you always have poor conditions whenever you need to put them on for real. Also, try to find a video depicting installation as it was a tremendous help to me. Because of the grade and lack of maintenance on the private road where we stayed and the fact that the highways would be clear during the day, I had to install/uninstall multiple times and once you know what you're doing it only takes a few minutes to install/uninstall. Also, many newer model vehicles have some variation of "traction control". FYI - if you get stuck or tires start spinning...turn off the traction control!!! Bought these snow chains after reading different articles and reviews. I was looking for something not very expensive since I was not sure I would even need to use them. We went skiing in the Alps this past weekend and they had 8 inches of new snow. Rental appartment was on a hill and we would not have been able to get to it without the chains. They were real easy to put on and take off. They worked great, though I did experience a little slippage and had a little difficulty getting going again when I had to come to a stop (going up-hill) to let a car go by. Overall, they met my expectations and were well worth it.
Minggu, 12 Agustus 2012
best buy Security Chain reviews
There are a confusing array of tire chains/traction control devices on
the market, and even this particular company makes so many different
models that it's hard to tell which ones are the best. Here's what you
need to know about chains and traction control devices, and why I like
the ones made by SCC. I also include some installation hints at the
bottom of this review.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- These are essentially the same, but the Shur Grip's are sized for passenger cars and the Super Z LT's are sized for light trucks. Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
There are two broad types of traction control devices: Tire chains and traction control cables. Tire chains are actual chain links. Traction control cables are long pieces of metal cables, covered in a plastic coating, and designed to form a Z-pattern over your tires. The plastic coating is then surrounded by hundreds of tiny, round, metal springs. Cables are generally regarded as better because they are easier to install, last longer, are less damaging to roads, and work better with vehicles equipped with ABS. Also, according to SCC, you can safely drive with cable devices up to 30 mph, even on roads with no snow, without damaging them.
You should normally install traction control cables on your drive wheels, i.e. the wheels that actually push or pull your car forward. If the snow is really bad, though, you may have to install cables on all four wheels. Read your vehicle's owner's manual for more details on where to install your cables.
In any case, it's a really, really good idea to have TWO sets of cables in your car at all times. That way, if something breaks (murphy's law), you won't be stuck.
Within the traction control cable category, there are two general types of cables: Self-tensioning cables tighten themselves using a tensioner (which looks, feels, and operates like a rubber band) that you install when you put the cables on. Manual tensioning cables are tightened by you, and have to be re-tightened after you drive for a couple hundred feet or so. I've heard that emergency vehicles tend to use the manually adjustable models because they are allegedly safer at speeds above 30 MPH, but driving above 30 MPH for any non-emergency personnel is illegal with any kind of traction control device.
There are several advantages to the manually adjustable models. They tend to have more slack, which can make installation easier. Also, the tensioners (i.e. rubber bands) on self-adjusting cables can and do break (it happened to me today) and if they break, you can't use the cables. So, if you get a cable that has a tensioner, get extra tensioners, or better yet, an extra set of cables, just in case.
Here's a breakdown of SCC's cable products:
Z-Chain- Manually adjustable Traction Control Cable. Easy to install, but must be retightened shortly after you start driving. Very easy to install because they come with lots of slack. Often used by police and fire personnel.
Shur Grip Z/Super Z LT- These are essentially the same, but the Shur Grip's are sized for passenger cars and the Super Z LT's are sized for light trucks. Self adjusting cable. Tensioners can break so buy extras. Less slack, so can be harder to put on the car, but generally easier than Z-chains because you don't have to manually tighten and re-tighten them.
Super Z6/Z8- Newest Self adjusting cable, designed for vehicles with very little sidewall clearance. They have all the advantages and disadvantages of the Shur Grip Z. In addition, however, the connectors are a little harder to work with on this model because of their low profile.
On all of these models, the metal rings are made of a spring-like material, SCC says that you don't have to remove the chains as soon as you reach a paved road. Rather, as long as you drive under 30 MPH, SCC says that you can drive with the traction control cables on your car, even as you switch between plowed and non-plowed roads. Because each of the hundreds of little springs are separate pieces, even when one breaks, it just falls off, and the others work to fill-in the void.
The Z6/Z8 models also come with a very nice cloth bag that is sized properly to hold the cables. The older cable-based SCC models come with plastic containers that are too small to easily lay the cables in.
Installing the cables is relatively easy, and I'm definitely not a hands-on kind of guy. It took me about 15 minutes the very first time, and now that I've done it several times, I can get it done in under a minute per wheel. SCC has a video on their web-site that explains how to do it. You should always do a test-installation of cables before you need them to make sure that you purchased the correct size and know how to install it. It's also very useful to have some waterproof gloves handy and a towel with you, as it is often wet and cold when you need to install chains. A good choice for gloves are the long wristed rubber gloves that you can buy at the grocery store for washing dishes, or some disposal latex gloves. After you use the cables for the first time, fold each cable separately and then use a trash bag tie to keep each one together. Otherwise, the next time you need them, they'll all be tangled together.
Here are some hints on how to install these chains.
1. Read the instructions from the manufacturer and pay close attention to the safety instructions. The basics of the instructions are (1) stay safe, (2) position the cables correctly, (3) connect the upper rear connector, (4) connect the upper front connector, (5) connect the lower front connector, and (6) connect the black rubber bands.
The instructions are quite good, but they leave out a few helpful hints, which I will now share with you.
BEFORE YOU START, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SIDE UP! There are markings all over the cables which indicate the correct orientation. Look for them!
2. Put on some rubber dishwashing gloves and lay a towel down wherever you're going to work, or you will get very, very dirty.
3. When you slide the cables under your tires, start from a point between your front and rear tires. Slide half of the chain under your car, and then reach around from the other side of the tire to pull the cable around. Although the instructions describe a swinging slide motion, I've never seen anyone who could do that without twisting the cables up. Just pull them and things will be much easier.
4. Once the cables are around the tire, DO NOT pull the bottom connectors that hold the cables together at the bottom of the tire towards one another. Keep them as far apart as possible. If you pull them in tight, you won't be able to pull the chain high enough in the back to connect the rear upper connector, which is what you are supposed to do first.
5. When you are connecting the rear upper connector, if you can't get the rear upper connectors up above the tire so that you can see them, push the part of the cables that surround the bottom of your tire backwards and under your car a few inches. This will create slack behind the cables and allow you to pull the cables up in the back.
6. Once you have the rear upper connector connected, hooking up the front upper connector may be difficult. Try pushing the rear upper connector back so that it is laying against the inside sidewall of your tire and then pull the front upper connectors towards you as hard as you can. Don't try to pull them towards each other. While sitting, just pull them straight out, towards you, and the rest of the chains should fall into place. Then they should be easy to connect.
7. Gently pull the parts of the chain that criss-cross your tires down towards the ground so that they aren't all bunched up at the top. Look at the chain and make sure that the parts you can see, and especially the blue cable, is evenly distributed around the tire.
8. Then pull the bottom front connectors towards you (out, but not up or down) to create slack. Then connect them. Again, don't try to pull them towards one another as that makes it almost impossible to create slack.
The instructions are clear enough, although they should have made it extra clear 1. by giving hints on the picture as to which side of the tire is on which direction relative to you and 2. by providing extra pictures of some keywords they use - bushing, C hook etc. Not that these are hard to figure out but every bit helps when you are out there in cold, snow, sleet etc.
Handling the chains and putting them on the tire and using the rubber tightener were simple and easy. For the first time it took me ridiculously short time - less than 10 minutes for both chains together. Taking them apart was simple and took perhaps not even 1 minute each tire.
These chains came in a box rather than a bag. A bag would have been more flexible. Putting them back in the box was slightly challenging and perhaps the hardest part of the whole exercise!!
I'd recommend taping the instructions sheet on the inside of the box so it doesn't fly away while you are installing the chains.
I also commend SecureChain company for having video on their web-site.
I am yet to try the chains in a really icy, tricky situation but I feel very confident they will work very well.I have used them once so far. Quality is good and they do work well, but it's a pretty rough ride on cleared roads. They are a pain to put on and not quite so bad to take off, but plan on getting full of snow as you put them on or take them off. Put a set in your trunk along with a good pair of gloves and avoid using them if at all possible. But if you get caught away from home and really need to get back after a snow storm, they are wonderful. Also, if you use them in salt conditions, be sure to rinse them off and hang them up to dry before putting them away or they will rust. Doubt if it hurts anything, but the rust stains look bad. I would also recommend putting them on sometime before you need to so that you get a feel for what all is involved. Much of my frustration could have been avoided if I had tried them on in better weather before I actually needed them. I haven't tried these chains yet... purchased as precaution for future ski trips into the mountains, but these chains WILL NEVER fit back into the product packaging in which they were shipped! Especially after they have been used, removed from the tires and in the freezing cold at the side of the highway the compactness of the original packaging WILL NEVER be accomplished. I purchased a 19" plastic tool chest, threw away the tray and fitted the chains into that container quite nicely. Also, the extra rubber bands in the 'purchased with' section below the chains on the product page ARE NOT FOR THESE CHAINS>... do not order them! (Stock # QG20070) I used my SZ331 chains for the first time during a recent weekend at a ski area. They were fairly easy to install and worked fine on the road up. (The road was plowed and sanded so it really wasn't much of a test.) Upon leaving the area it was snowing heavily and there were a lot of unplowed areas of deep snow in the parking lots and roadways. I got stuck numerous times even with these chains on. More importantly, the passenger's side chain came off twice in the deep snow and when I finally got going down the mountain it came off again. It now lies somewhere on that mountain road.
I believe I installed the chain correctly and I confirmed that I bought the correct SCC chain for my tire size. I called the Security Chain Company (SCC) to see if I could get a single replacement chain. They said losing a chain wasn't covered in the warranty and they don't sell "half" sets. Asking why the one chain kept coming off in the deep snow, the rep said that the only way they come off is "if you spin the tires." Really? You're kidding? I've driven with chains in the mountains for years and I've spun tires with chains on (not excessively of course, I know not to do that) but some spinning of tires is bound happen in snow, duh! Went on a winter road trip a few weeks back and the forecast called for a ton of snow and ice. Well, good thing the weather man messed up because we didn't encounter any snow or ice. So, having said that i cannot write a review based on performance of the SCC Shur Grip traction chains.
So, I shall base my review based on how easy the Shur Grips were to install. Before taking off on my epic roadtrip I heeded sound advice and did a test fit of the chains and learned how to mount them. I have NEVER used snow chains before. These were a piece of cake to install! It took me less than 5 minutes. It didn't seem possible but they really are that easy to put on. The SCC Shur Grip company website offers some instructional videos on how to use the chains.
The chains came with tensioners included. Which is good because I wouldn't have known that I needed them until it's too late. The whole setup fits snugly in its included hard sided storage case.
My only question is why are they called chains? they are really just cables with hundreds of washer looking things. They are not made of the inter connected links normal people think of when using the word "chain."I purchased these for my Chevy Uplander. The first thing I did was jack up the front end and install these to test for fit. They seem to fit well and not interfere with any equipment so I drove to the end of the street and back. All in all, it is a good product. Still need to get out on snow however.
My biggest challenge came when putting them back in the box. After talking to SCC, I recommend the following:
(1) Lay the first chain out flat
(2) Fold in half bringing one end of the chain over to the other end.
(3) Repeat (1) & (2) with the second chain on top of the first.
(4) At this point it should appear to be four half-lengths of z-chain stacked nicely.
(5) Make sure the case is open and empty.
(6) Being careful not to pinch fingers, bunch the cross cables together, lift, and place in the box with the middle of the cross cables lined up with the middle of the box. The ends WILL overhang.
(7) Starting on one side of the box, fold the radial cables into the box.
(8) Repeat with the other side.
(9) Twist and fold the tension bands, collect the gloves, and place them in the middle void left between the radial cables .. on top of the cross cables.
(10) Fold the box close; force the radial cables into the box starting on one side and finishing with the other.
(11) Make sure the box is closed with the lip of the bottom half resting inside the upper half.
(12) Make sure the latches are secured.
Practice! Practice! Practice!
There will be nothing like standing on the side of a road on a dark cold snowy night trying to figure out how to install and remove the chains for the first time. And watch the videos. They make it look as easy as it is. Easy to install and work great. If a person needs to use chains they shouldn't be driving fast, so I don't get why goof balls complain about them coming off at high speeds. If the written installation instructions have you confused, just visit the company's website to view a video (it's easier). Most of the time my 4 wheel drive is enough but when it isn't , these have always got me out of those tuff spots, like the snow storm I drove into out in the midwest. I'd suggest practice putting them on before you really need them.
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